The new platinum-cased Rolex Perpetual 1908 watch, introduced at Watches & Wonders 2024, has garnered significant attention, meriting multiple features on aBlogtoWatch. Most recently, Mike Razak from the aBlogtoWatch team shared his enthusiastic observations on the “Ice Blue” guilloche-dial Rolex Perpetual 1908 52506. This model was also included in our list of the top 10 watches released at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024. Here, I share my own experience with this exceptional dress watch, highlighting its design, elegance, and value proposition. The Rolex 1908 family, introduced in 2023 to replace the Rolex Cellini, initially featured 18k gold models (with no steel option available, and likely never to be). The addition of the platinum reference 52506 further enhances the 1908 collection.

Rolex traditionally pairs its platinum watches with an “ice blue” dial color. This hue is familiar to many from the platinum Daytona and Day-Date “President” models. The novelty of the 1908 lies not in its color but in the intricate guilloche engraving. While guilloche is rare in Rolex designs, the brand has used this technique in the past on select dress watches. However, none have made as significant an impact as the 1908 platinum watch. The combination of the “ice blue” color and guilloche engraving is not only stunning but also creates a unique feel within Rolex’s current catalog. This is particularly noteworthy given the frequent critique that many Rolex models look too similar. Recently, Rolex has been making a concerted effort to diversify its designs, producing watches (or dials) that stand out from the rest of their lineup.

Platinum is a costly material, and Rolex likely produces more platinum watches than any other luxury watch brand. Similar to its gold watches, Rolex offers some of the best platinum watches and provides great value compared to competitors. The 52506 model, priced at just over $30,000 USD, feels like a solid value for a platinum-cased watch. Although it is not a full-platinum watch with a matching bracelet (the brown alligator strap and matching platinum deployant are beautiful), it remains well-priced. There may be less expensive platinum watches on the market, but it would be interesting to know if the watch enthusiast community agrees that Rolex offers a good value proposition with this model.

Interest in Rolex is predominantly centered around its sports watches within the larger Oyster Perpetual family. Over the past 30 years, Rolex dress watches have occupied a niche market. This reflects changing attitudes toward dress watches and style preferences. As people dress up less frequently, the relevance of dress watches has diminished unless one can style them with more casual attire. Traditionally, this has been challenging with ultra-simple monochromatic “tuxedo watches,” but modern dress watches have evolved. Brands, particularly Japanese ones, have popularized the concept of vibrant, casual dress watches. Every conceivable color and texture has been explored, and Rolex has taken notice. Although the 1908 watch is inherently conservative, the platinum version with a guilloche-decorated blue dial represents Rolex’s response to this trend. It remains to be seen whether Rolex will continue this direction by introducing more vibrant colors in the 18k gold 1908 family, beyond the traditional off-white and black.

The 1908 case offers 50 meters of water resistance, compared to the 100 meters or more for Rolex Oyster Perpetual cases, making it less sporty but with its own advantages. The 39mm wide case is just 9.5mm thick, allowing for a slimmer profile. The Perpetual 1908 family is the only men’s line currently featuring Rolex’s high-performance caliber 7140 automatic movements. These movements include Rolex’s Syloxi silicon hairspring technology and slightly outperform the brand’s other Superlative Chronometer calibers. The 4Hz, 66-hour power reserve automatic 7140 movements are also visually stunning. Unlike most Rolex watches, the 1908 models have sapphire crystal casebacks, showcasing the 7140 movements’ industrially applied finishing techniques, rivaled only by Grand Seiko.

The primary criticism from the community regarding the Rolex 1908 platinum is the “SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER” text on the dial. This complaint is unusual for a Rolex watch with this text, suggesting that there is little else to criticize. While the dial might appear cleaner without this text, it is essential for Rolex branding and underscores the brand’s legacy of superior watch performance. This text is unlikely to deter enthusiasts from appreciating this horological masterpiece.

The impressive design and craftsmanship of the Rolex 1908 platinum watch make it suitable for more casual wear. While pairing it with sweatpants might be excessive, it could easily become a comfortable near-daily watch for many. Its discreet luxury feel does not immediately identify it as a Rolex to novices, yet it exudes timeless beauty and style. While I am not currently in the market to spend $30,000 on a watch, given my financial priorities, the Rolex 1908 platinum is high on my list of “sensible luxury watches” that bring immense satisfaction to wear.